In Tow
A published account of a pleasure trip on the Wilts and Berks Canal appeared in The Pall Mall Magazine, Vol 1 May to Oct 1893.
The authors’ journey on the Wilts and Berks Canal took place during the latter half of a three-week summer cruise, specifically during the month of August. After traveling from Reading to Bath via the Kennet and Avon Canal, they turned back to Semington to begin their passage on the Wilts and Berks, which occupied the final six days of their voyage before finishing at Abingdon.
The Experience on the Wilts and Berks Canal
The experience was characterized by the canal's narrowness, deserted nature, and the challenging condition of its infrastructure.
- Navigational Challenges: The canal was described as "deserted" and "out of order," with wooden bridges that were often too low for typical pleasure craft. Unlike the swing bridges on the Kennet and Avon, the Wilts and Berks featured lift bridges that moved vertically on hinges and were considered "much more troublesome" to operate.
- Tight Dimensions: The locks were notoriously small; some were only a few inches longer and not one inch wider than their 70-foot boat, the Ada. Although official records suggested a maximum vessel width of 6 feet 10 inches, the authors successfully navigated the 7-foot wide Ada through the locks, though they noted the walls and gates were frequently in bad condition.
- Water Levels and Landscape: The authors encountered "short water" (low levels) on the summit level near Swindon. The surrounding scenery towards the end of the trip consisted of "flat, wide 'fields' of pasture land" as the canal approached the Thames Valley.
Itinerary Highlights
The journey through this section included several notable stops and landmarks:
- Lacock and Dauntsey: They visited the "very fine old house" at Lacock Abbey and passed through Dauntsey, near Malmesbury.
- Swindon: They passed through New Swindon, described as a "grimy town" and home to 9,000 railway mechanics, where they also encountered the junction for the North Wilts Branch.
- Wantage and Abingdon: They passed the branch canal to the "sleepy old town" of Wantage before reaching Abingdon, where the canal entered the Thames and their voyage concluded.
The authors found the lockmen along this route, such as Lockman Ferris at Marston, to be generally civil and helpful, often providing the crew with fresh vegetables and flowers.
